Dear Doctor Column, June 9, 2003

Question:

I would love to be able to wear some makeup, but my skin is very sensitive and most cosmetics break me out. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer:

Wearing cosmetics can be challenging for women with sensitive skin, who do their best to avoid cosmetic irritation and unsightly breakouts. Although some of these women end up steering clear of makeup altogether, the solution to protecting their sensitive skin could lie in following some simple cosmetic suggestions and reminders.

UAB dermatologist Dr. Bethany Bergamo says, "Understanding the makeup of cosmetics can really pay off when it comes to protecting sensitive skin. Women should know what type of ingredients to look for when they are purchasing products at beauty counters or drugstores, as well as know how to properly use those cosmetics once they bring them home."

To determine which cosmetic products are best for sensitive skin, the American Academy of Dermatology offers the following recommendations.

1. Choose powder when possible. Powder cosmetics are not only great at removing shine, they have very few preservatives and contain few ingredients that can cause skin irritation compared with liquid makeup.
2. Avoid waterproof cosmetics, which require a solvent to remove them. They also remove sebum, the oily substance made by the sebaceous glands in the skin. Without this oily barrier, sensitive skin is exposed to potential irritants that can cause a beauty breakout.
3. Throw out old cosmetics. "Women should keep track of cosmetic expiration dates and throw out any items that have passed their peak," cautions Dr. Bergamo. "Old makeup products can spoil or become contaminated. This is especially true for eye products, which should also be discarded if you experience any type of eye infection." Typical life spans for cosmetic products include 1 year for foundation and lipstick, 3 to 4 months for mascara, and 2 years for powder and shadows. It also is important to wash makeup brushes and sponges regularly to remove accumulated dirt and germs that can aggravate sensitive skin.
4. Use black-colored eyeliner and mascara products. Dermatologists feel that black is the least allergenic of all colorants used in eye products.
5. Use pencil eyeliner and eyebrow fillers. According to Dr. Bergamo, "Pencil eyeliner and eyebrow pencils are wax-based and contain pigment and minimal preservatives. They are much less likely to cause problems than liquid eyeliners that contain latex, which may cause a reaction in latex-sensitive individuals.
6. Stick to earth-toned eye shadows. Lighter earth tones, such as tan, cream, white, or beige, seem to cause less upper-eyelid irritation. "The higher concentration of pigments in darker colors, such as navy blue, can cause an adverse reaction in women with sensitive skin," Dr. Bergamo speculates.
7. Check sunscreen ingredients. Dermatologists recommend daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a sun protection factor 15 or higher. For women with sensitive skin, sunscreen should contain only the physical sunscreen ingredients zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Unlike chemical sunscreens that absorb ultraviolet rays, physical sunscreen ingredients deflect the rays rather than absorb them.
8. Use products that contain no more than 10 ingredients. The fewer ingredients in a product, the less likely it is to cause a problem.
9. Avoid nail polishes. Wet nail polish can be transferred to a person's eyes and face before it dries. This casual transfer can cause problems for women with sensitive skin or allergies to any of the components of the polish.
10. Use foundations with a silicone base. Although powder is preferred to protect sensitive skin, women choosing a liquid foundation should look for one with a silicone base. Liquid facial foundations based on silicone do not cause acne, and silicone has a low incidence of skin irritation.

Beauty products are a great way to enhance your appearance, but if you have sensitive skin and are finding that cosmetics do more harm than good, your best course of action is to consult a dermatologist who can help determine the safest beauty regimen for you.